These floats are best described as being ‘crude but effective’

|This is surprising as these floats are very effective for fishing the deep flowing swims that are present in many of our major rivers. They are also particularly useful on tidal sections of rivers, where the depth can dramatically increase as the tide comes in.These floats are best described as being ‘crude but effective’. This is an accurate statement as the float is in reality just a large balsa fitted with two rings. The float needs to be large so that it carries enough weight to pull the line quickly through the rings to the stop knot. The float must cock as quickly as possible so that our bait is presented to the fish in the shortest possible time. The bait must reach the bottom in the first part of the swim and not three quarters of the way down the stream.The float is also large to combat any turbulence. We need to know that if the float goes down, it is a fish and not a surface boil responsible.A sliding stop knot or plastic float stop is placed on the line at depth. The float is then threaded on the line, followed by a free running float rubber. This can be used to turn the float from being a slider to a fixed float by sliding it over the peg in the base (see making details). A number 4 shot is placed underneath about 8ft from the hook. The float rests on this and it reduces the amount the float has to slide. Instead of bulk shot, a large tungsten olivette is placed 18inches to 2ft from the hook. The olivette is more dense and streamlined than split shot. It therefore sinks faster offering less resistance to the strike as it is streamlined. The remaining three number 4 or 6 shot are spaced out between the olivette and hook.I have regularly used these floats on tidal waters to fish high tides with good results. It works particularly well on the tidal Thames and on various deep water swim below weirs.As these floats (to my knowledge) are not commercially available I have given instructions so that you can make your own.

Materials:

5/16 ths balsa wood dowel Glass paper (various grades) Selection of small paint brushes Barbecue or cocktail sticks Ready made pole rings Range of Humbrol paints Piece of spongeMost of these materials can be purchased from a good tackle or model making shop.

Instructions

1. Select a suitable length of the balsa wood dowl. My floats vary from 5 inches to 8 inches.2. Using glass paper, form the tip.3. Form the base and glue in a length of barbecue or cocktail stick. This only needs to big enough to take a float rubber. I often fish one of these floats as a slider on the tide and then fish the same float when the tide is down as a fixed float. All I do is thread on a length of float tubing after the float and leave it resting against the bulk shot when fishing the float as a slider. At low tide the tubing is slid over this insert to change it into a fixed float.4. Whip on two wire rings. They must be bent at right angles to thefloat and are aligned.Note: I use a top ring that is small and a large end ring. The lower ringonly acts as a line guide and being larger reduces friction allowing thefloat to settle quicker.5. The float is then given two coats of cellulose paint to seal it.6. The bottom is given a coat of black paint whilst the tip is painted base white.7. The tip is painted fluorescent orange whilst the body is stippled using a piece of sponge with emerald green.

As an alternative to making your own you could always contact Pat Tarrant on 01322 337628. Pat often makes floats for me.