Let me ask you this question

The trouble is, they are just so cheap and tiny that often little thought goes into their purchase. Let me ask you this question? How many different hook patterns do you own? Obviously, the answer will depend on the species you pursue, but in most cases, the range of hooks I carry is more extensive than any other item of tackle. The range of hooks available now is huge, but that does not necessarily mean that they are of universally high quality. I have yet to find any range of hooks which are faultless. Even the most expensive packets contain the odd rogue, with an ill-formed point or half closed eye. So my first suggestion is that each hook should be examined before being tied on. After a while this will become second nature, but try to make a conscious effort to check each one. First, check that there is no rust on the metal. Next, check that the eye is closed properly and that there are no sharp edges. Points often become damaged, so check the sharpness next. I prefer to stick the point into the soft skin on the tip of a finger, rather than draw the point across my nail (which may inadvertantly blunt it). Be careful not to draw blood though as there are many bacteria which lurk in water. Finally, check that the barb is cut correctly and is not damaged. Only then is the hook ready for use.Although once popular, I never use a sharpening stone for my coarse fishing hooks. After a couple of fish, or between trips I just change hooks. Most modern hooks are coated and trying to touch the points up with a sharpening stone will remove this coating and speed up the rusting process. Some hooks do tarnish incredibly quickly, so it is always wise to keep an eye on the point and change any hooks which may be faulty. When fishing gravel bedded rivers and lakes hooks points are regularly blunted or turned over. By always checking your hooks these problems can be effectively eliminated from the long list of problems which may ruin your chances. I tend to use a single knot to attach my hooks when not using a hair rig. The spade end knot is by far the strongest knot around as there is no chance of the line cutting into itself. It is also quite simple to tie. I am right handed, so reverse everything if you are left handed. Hold the hook by the bend in your left hand and the end of the line in your right. Lay the line along the shank of the hook with at least 10cm overlap. Make a loop in the end of the line, so that the end is now facing up the shank of the hook. Taking hold of the end of the line in the right hand wind it between five and ten times around the hook shank (use more turns with lighter lines). No pass the end of the line though the loop and slowly tighten the knot. As with all knots, make sure that the line is well lubricated to stop it becoming damaged. Once the line is almost snug make sure that the line is exiting from the front of the spade and then bed the knot in. The easiest way to practice this knot is to try tying pieces of string to a nail. Gradually move down to smaller hooks as your ability allows. The only problem with this knot is that it does not take kindly to unbalanced tackle. Because the knot relies upon the line sitting tight to the spade if the line is too thick it will tend to slip over the spade. Make sure the tackle is balanced and you will have no problems. When using eyed hooks I just pass the line through the eye before tying a spade end knot. Again, make sure that the line exits from the front of the eye. The need to match hook size to line diameter is less of a problem with eyes hooks as the knot has more metal to stop it coming loose. You may wonder why the line exits from the front of the hook. Well, take it from me that with most forms of fishing this will allow you to hit far more bites than if the line is exiting from any other direction. As with hooks, always test your knots to make sure that they are tied correctly. This will depend upon your skill and also the line used. Some pre-stretched lines are a real pain to tie and tend to ‘pig tail’‚ when the loops of the knot are drawn tight. John Roberts markets a nifty little knot tester which allows you to pull pretty hard without damaging the hook.

This weeks column really contains basic information, but many people do not pay adequate attention to it. Hook quality and knots should not be a problem for you as long as you get into good habits. Next week I will describe some of my favourite hook patterns and why I think that they work so well.